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Stain Management App

INTERACTIVE STAIN TREATMENT GUIDE

How to treat a host of stains on natural stone, tile and grout, concrete and terrazzo

  • Video buttonHOW-TO-VIDEO
  • Video buttonAbout Stains
  • Video buttonHow to Apply a Poultice
  • Video buttonWhat is a Poultice?
  • Unknown Stain
  • ADHESIVES
  • ALKALINE ETCHING
  • ALUMINUM
  • BEER
  • BIRD DROPPINGS
  • BLOOD
  • BODY FLUIDS
  • BURNS
  • CANDLE WAX
  • CANDY (NON-CHOCOLATE)
  • CARPET PADDING
  • CHOCOLATE
  • COFFEE AND TEA
  • COLAS
  • COPPER
  • EFFLORESCENCE
  • EGG
  • FATTY OILS
  • FRUIT JUICE (LIGHT COLORED)
  • FURNITURE POLISH
  • GLUE (WATER SOLUBLE)
  • GLUE (SYNTHETIC)
  • GRASS
  • GREASE
  • GUM
  • HARD WATER STAINS
  • HEEL MARKS
  • ICE CREAM (NON-CHOCOLATE)
  • INK
  • INK-TONER
  • IODINE
  • JAM OR JELLY
  • KOOLAID
  • LEATHER
  • LIPSTICK
  • LIQUOR
  • LOTION
  • MAKE-UP
  • MILDEW STAINS
  • MILK
  • MORTAR
  • MUD
  • MUSTARD
  • NAIL POLISH
  • OIL
  • PAINT (OIL BASED)
  • PAINT (WATER BASED)
  • PAPER
  • PENCIL
  • PERFUME
  • PERSPIRATION
  • RED FRUIT
  • RUBBER
  • RUST
  • SHOE POLISH
  • SILICONE
  • SMOKE/SOOT
  • SOAP FILM
  • SOFT DRINKS/COLA
  • SOUP
  • SOY-WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
  • STREAKING
  • STUNS
  • SWIRLS
  • SYRUP
  • TAR
  • TOBACCO
  • TOMATO
  • TOMATO SAUCE
  • VEGETABLE
  • VOMIT
  • WATER RINGS - SPOTS
  • WAX COATINGS
  • WINES
  • WOOD STAIN
  • YELLOWING

About Stains

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About Stains

STAINS COME FROM MANY SOURCES BUT MOST ARE REMOVABLE

The key to success is cleaning up any spills and treating any resulting stains as soon as you can. Understanding the source of the stain will help in determining the best treatment. Many options are available for treating stains on natural stone from creating your own poultice to using convenient ready-made poultices. Ask us for help if you need it.

We all know what a stain is…. or do we?

Let’s start by saying that a stain is a discoloration. So far, so good. The fact is, however, that not all discolorations are stains. To illustrate the point, let’s take, for example, a piece of common fabric. Fabric is typically absorbent. Therefore, if we spill some liquid onto it, the material will absorb it. If it is only water, it will leave a temporary stain. In fact, once it dries the fabric will go back to its original color, but if coffee or cooking oil is spilled on it a stain will occur because the fabric will absorb the staining agent and change its color in a permanent way—unless we do something to remove the agent from the fabric.

On the other hand, if bleach is spilled on that same fabric a discoloration will occur, but it can hardly be defined as a stain because it is actually a permanent damage to the dye that originally made the color of the fabric.

As with the fabric example, when it comes to natural stone there are stains that are true stains and there are “stains” that are actually discolorations caused by something else.

All stones are, more or less, absorbent. One may say that diamonds or gemstones are not absorbent. That’s right, but a gemstone is not actually a stone. It is actually made of one crystal of one single mineral.

All other (less noble) stones are the composition of many crystals, either of the same mineral, or of different minerals bonded together. The “space” in between these molecules of minerals is mostly what determines the porosity of a stone. The porosity of stone varies greatly, and so does, of course, their absorbency. Some of them are extremely dense, therefore their porosity is minimal. What this translates into is the fact that the absorbency of such types of stone is so marginal that—by all practical intents and purposes—it can be considered irrelevant. Some other stones present a medium porosity, and others at the very end of the spectrum are extremely porous. Because of their inherent porosity, many stones will absorb liquids, and if such liquids are staining agents a true stain will occur.

IS IT REALLY A STAIN?

A true stain is always darker than the stained material. If it appears as a lighter color it is not a stain, but either a mark of corrosion (etching) made by an acid, or a caustic mark (bleaching) made by a strong base (alkali). In other words, a lighter color “stain” is always surface damage and has no relation whatsoever with the absorbency rate of the damaged material—stone or otherwise. There is not a single exception to this rule.

A stain is a discoloration of the stone produced by a staining agent that was actually absorbed by the stone. Other “discolorations” have nothing to do with the porosity (absorbency) of the stone, but rather are a result of damage to the stone surface. All those “stains” that look like “water spots” or “water rings” are actually marks of corrosion (etches) created by some chemically active liquid (mostly—but not necessarily limited to—acids), which had a chance to come in contact with the stone. All calcite-based stones such as marble, limestone, onyx, travertine, etc., are sensitive to acids. Therefore, they will etch readily (within a few seconds). Many slates, will also etch and so will a few “granites” (those that instead of being a 100% silicate rock are mixed with a certain percentage of calcite).

Now let’s discuss how to remove stains!

How to remove a stain—Poulticing method

Definition of a Poultice

What’s a poultice? It is the combination of a very absorbent medium (it must be more absorbent than the stone) mixed with a chemical, which is to be selected in accordance with the type of stain to be removed. The concept is to re-absorb the stain out of the stone. The chemical will attack the stain inside the stone, and the absorbent agent will pull them both out together. The absorbent agent can be the same all the time, regardless of the nature of the stain to be removed, but the chemical will be different—in accordance with the nature of the staining agent—since it will have to interact with it. The absorbent part of a poultice could be (in order of preference): talcum powder (baby powder), paper towel or diatomaceous earth (the white stuff inside your swimming pool filter) for larger projects. NOTE: There are convenient poulticing kits that make the task of stain removal easier. You may want to ask your stone care contractor for some specific recommendations.

As we said before, the chemical must be selected in accordance with the nature of the staining agent.

There are five major classifications of stains:

Organic stains (i.e. coffee, tea, coloring agents of dark sodas and other drinks, gravy, mustard, etc.)

Inorganic stains (i.e. ink, color dies, dirt—water spilling over from flower or plant pots, etc.)

Oily stains (i.e. any type of vegetable oil, certain mineral oils—motor oil, butter, margarine, melted animal fat, etc.)

Biological stains (i.e. mildew, mold, etc.)

Metal stains (i.e. rust, copper, etc.)

The chemical of choice for both organic and inorganic stains is hydrogen peroxide (30/40 volumes, the clear type—available at your local beauty salon. The one from the drugstore is too weak, at 3.5 volume).

Sometimes, in the case of ink stains, denatured alcohol (or rubbing alcohol) may turn out to be more effective.

For oily stains, our favorite is acetone, which is available at any hardware or paint store. (Forget your nail polish remover. Some of them contain other chemicals, and others contain no acetone whatsoever.)

For biological stains, one can try using regular household bleach or a mildew stain remover designated safe for stone.

For metal/rust stains, our favorite is a white powder (to be dissolved in water) called Iron-out™, which can be found in any hardware store. There is also a product called RSR-2000 made by Alpha Tools (available at www.stonecarecentral.com) that is used and recommended by restoration contractors.

A poultice is an absorbent material applied to a surface to draw out a stain. It can be a powder, paper or a gel. The most common poultices in use today are powders. A number of powders are very absorbent and are ideal for stain removal. Some typical powders used in poultices are listed below:

  • Stonecare PRO Signature Professional Stone Poultice Powder
  • Clays and fullers earth
  • Talc
  • Chalk (whiting)
  • Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
  • Diatomaceous earth
  • Methyl cellulose
  • Flour

Do not use whiting or clays containing iron. When using acidic chemicals the acids will react with the iron and may cause yellowing of certain stone surfaces. It is best to purchase poultice powder materials from a reputable supplier of products for this purpose.
There are also pre-packaged ready to use poultices such as Dr Fred's Innovative Solutions Stain Sponge www.godrfred.com.
Paper poultices can be quite effective on mild stains. They are easier to apply than powder poultices and are also easier to remove. Some typical paper poultices listed below:

  • Cotton balls
  • Paper towels
  • Gauze pads

Gel poultices are usually thick chemical gels that are designed to be applied to a stain with the use of powders or papers. They work effectively with certain stains. When purchasing poultice materials, ask if they contain stain removing chemicals or if they need chemicals added. Some powder and gel poultices contain chemicals, and all you need to do is add water. Never mix additional chemicals with a poultice that contains its own chemical formulation.

 

What is a Poultice?

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What is a Poultice?

A poultice is an absorbent material applied to a surface to draw out a stain. It can be a powder, paper or a gel. The most common poultices in use today are powders. A number of powders are very absorbent and are ideal for stain removal. Some typical powders used in poultices are listed below:

  • Stonecare PRO Signature Professional Stone Poultice Powder
  • Clays and fullers earth
  • Talc
  • Chalk (whiting)
  • Sepiolite (hydrous magnesium silicate)
  • Diatomaceous earth
  • Methyl cellulose
  • Flour
Do not use whiting or clays containing iron. When using acidic chemicals the acids will react with the iron and may cause yellowing of certain stone surfaces. It is best to purchase poultice powder materials from a reputable supplier of products for this purpose.
There are also pre-packaged ready to use poultices such as Dr Fred's Innovative Solutions Stain Sponge www.godrfred.com.
Paper poultices can be quite effective on mild stains. They are easier to apply than powder poultices and are also easier to remove. Some typical paper poultices listed below:
  • Cotton balls
  • Paper towels
  • Gauze pads
Gel poultices are usually thick chemical gels that are designed to be applied to a stain with the use of powders or papers. They work effectively with certain stains. When purchasing poultice materials, ask if they contain stain removing chemicals or if they need chemicals added. Some powder and gel poultices contain chemicals, and all you need to do is add water. Never mix additional chemicals with a poultice that contains its own chemical formulation.

How to Apply a Poultice

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How to Apply a Poultice

ADHESIVES

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ADHESIVES

Types: Tape residue, cellophane, stickers, etc.

Problem: Sticky residue on surface of stone. Some tape residues, especially duct tape can penetrate below the surface of the stone and can be very difficult to remove.

Solution:

  1. Peel off any remaining tape. Use a very sharp razor blade and be careful not to scratch the surface of the stone.
  2. The remaining sticky residue can usually be removed with a rag and Reagent #1 (or acetone). Pour the chemical on a clean white rag and rub the area until all of the sticky residue is gone.
  3. If the adhesive has left a stain, prepare a poultice of Reagent #2 (or mineral spirits) and poultice powder, being careful to follow directions for all user and label precautions.

ALKALINE ETCHING

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ALKALINE ETCHING

Type: Etching from alkaline strippers, ammonia and heavy duty stone cleaners

Problem: Alkaline etching is caused by alkaline salts contained in cleaners that are deposited below the surface of the stone. The etch marks appear similar to an acid etch mark.

Solution:

1. Attempt to remove the etching with Reagent #2 (or a mild acid such as vinegar ).

2. If dealing with a polished marble, re-honing and re-polishing may be necessary.  

ALUMINUM

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ALUMINUM

Type: All aluminum, usually from windows, awnings, etc.

Problem: Can leave a crusty, whitish residue.

Solution:

1. Remove any crusty residue from surface. On polished surfaces, use a sharp razor blade. On textured surfaces use a hard brush.

2. On polished surfaces, dilute one part Reagent #3 and 10 parts water (or hydrochloric acid in 40 parts water). Apply the solution and agitate with a soft nylon brush.

3. On textured surfaces, mix one part Reagent #3 and 3 parts water (or hydrochloric acid in 20 parts water). Apply the solution and agitate with a soft nylon brush. (Be extremely careful with acids on or near marbles; they will severely etch the surface requiring honing and re-polishing.)  

COLAS

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COLAS

Type: Coke, Pepsi and all other carbonated sodas

Problem: The coloring and sugars in sodas can cause severe staining.

Solution:

1. If the spill is fresh, blot with a clean white cloth.

2. Clean the area thoroughly with a mild detergent and warm water. Flood the stained area thoroughly.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

BLOOD

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BLOOD

Types: Human and animal blood and raw meats prepared on a marble countertop can cause blood staining

Problem: Blood contains salts and proteins; if it is cleaned while still fresh it will usually not stain. If allowed to dry, blood stains can be very difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild dish detergent.

2. Prepare a solution of 50% household ammonia and water. Apply this solution and allow to sit for several minutes. Gently scrub the area and rinse with cold clear water.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with poultice powder and ammonia.

Unknown Stain

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Unknown Stain

UNKNOWN STAIN REMOVAL PROCEDURE

The following procedure is to be used only if you have no indication of the stain type. Be sure to test this procedure before applying it to the entire area.

1. Remove excess stain material from the surface by scraping with a very sharp razor blade.

2. Blot the stain with acetone and a clean white cloth. If the staining material transfers to the white cloth, continue blotting until no additional stain is transferred. Proceed to step (6). If no stain is transferred to the white cloth proceed to step (3).

3. Clean the area thoroughly with cool water and stone soap or neutral cleaner. Use a white cloth to remove excess solution. If stain is transferred to the white cloth, proceed to Step (7). If stain is not transferred proceed to Step (4).

4. Blot the area with 20% hydrogen peroxide and a clean white cloth. If the stain material transfers to the white cloth, continue blotting until no stain is transferred. Proceed to Step (8). If no stain is transferred proceed to step (5).

5. Clean the area thoroughly with an iron-removing cleaner. Agitate with a soft brush or cloth and remove excess with a white cloth. Use caution; most iron-removing chemicals contain acids and may etch the stone. If stain is lightened, proceed to step (9). If stain is not changed by this method proceed to step (10).

6. Apply a poultice using a poultice powder and either mineral spirits or commercial paint remover. Several poultices may be needed. Use only one solvent type. Do not mix solvents. Continue to poultice until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step (10).

7. Apply a poultice using poultice powder and an alkaline stone cleaner or heavy duty neutral cleaner. Several poultices may need to be applied. Continue to poultice until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step (10).

8. Apply a poultice of using poultice powder and 20% hydrogen peroxide. Do not use clay or fuller earth powders that contain hydrogen peroxide. If stain is difficult to remove, re-poultice using 50% hydrogen peroxide. Several poultices may need to be applied. Continue poulticing until stain is removed. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts, proceed to step (10).

9. Apply a poultice with poultice powder and an iron-removing chemical. Continue poulticing until stain is completely removed. Re-honing and/or re-polishing may be necessary on marble. If stain is not removed or lightened after five attempts proceed to step (10).

10. If stain is not removed, it is likely that it has become permanently set or it is part of the stone. Replacing the stone or using a rug to cover the stain may be the only options.

BODY FLUIDS

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BODY FLUIDS

Type: Urine and vomit

Problem: Urine and vomit contain acids which can etch polished marble. The proteins contained can also stain the stone and have a terrible odor.

Solution:

1. Try to clean up the accident as quickly as possible. Blot the area with a clean white cloth.

2. Apply a solution of 1 part vinegar, 1 part 35% hydrogen peroxide and 6 parts water. Let solution soak into stain for several minutes and pick up with a wet vacuum.

3. After treatment above apply a solution of a commercial bacteria/enzyme digester (available at janitorial supply). Cover with a paper towel soaked with digester. Allow to sit overnight. This should remove the odor. If not, it may require several applications of digester to remove the odor completely.

BURNS

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BURNS

Types: Cigarette, hot irons, propane, etc.

Problem: Cigarette and cigar burns will leave a yellow nicotine stain which can be difficult to remove. Cigarette burns can also melt the stone and in the case of granite may cause spalling.

Solution:

1. If stone is melted or spalled, re-honing and polishing will be necessary. Contact your stone restoration professional.

2. If a yellow nicotine stain is the problem, poultice with poultice powder with 35% hydrogen peroxide.

3. If several hydrogen peroxide poultice applications do not work, try poulticing with poultice powder and mineral spirits.

CANDY (NON-CHOCOLATE)

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CANDY (NON-CHOCOLATE)

Types: Hundreds of types of candies, all containing sugar and various dyes.

Problem: Several candies contain dyes; red dye especially can be very difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Scrape remaining candy from surface.

2. Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.

3. If acetone doesn’t work, poultice with poultice powder with mineral spirits.

CARPET PADDING

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CARPET PADDING

Type: Carpet padding made of jute.

Problem: Carpets that have jute backing can leave a difficult to remove brown to yellow stain on stone surfaces. The jute is made of a burlap type material. Jute backing can cause some very deep stains that can penetrate throughout the stone.

Solution:

1. Scrape any excess carpet padding from the surface.

2. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent and clean cold water.

3. Poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

CHOCOLATE

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CHOCOLATE

Types: Candy, cocoa, ice cream

Problem: Can leave brown stains in light color marbles.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.

2. If stain is still present, clean with ammonia and water. Let solution sit on stained area for several minutes. Remove excess solution and rinse with clear cold water.

3. If above procedures fail, poultice with poultice powder and ammonia. Difficult to remove chocolate stains may require poulticing with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

COFFEE AND TEA

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COFFEE AND TEA

Types: All coffee including instant coffee, hot tea and iced tea

Problem: Coffee and tea both contain tannin which can leave a yellow to brown stain. If left on stone long enough the stain can penetrate deeply and be nearly impossible to remove. If the concentration of coffee or tea is strong enough it can also etch the surface of polished marble.

Solution:

1. Pour 35% hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Leave until bubbling stops.

Caution: Do not use ammonia only. Ammonia can permanently set the stain.

2. If above procedure does not remove stain than poultice with poultice powder and 35% hydrogen peroxide.

3. If all else fails, try poulticing with poultice powder and mineral spirits.

COPPER

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COPPER

Type: Copper piping, sculptures, etc.

Problem: Copper can cause a green stain that can sometimes penetrate deep into stone if allowed to age.

Solution:

1. Remove any excess crust by scraping with a sharp razor blade. If the surface is polished wet the surface with soap and water to prevent scratching the stone.

2. Prepare a solution of one part ammonium and 3 parts warm water. Apply this solution to the surface and agitate with a soft bristle brush. Rinse with clean water.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with ammonium chloride and poultice powder.

EFFLORESCENCE

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EFFLORESCENCE

Type: A dry white powder on the surface of the stone. True efflorescence is loose and will wipe off easily.

Problem: Most conditions that cause efflorescence are water related. Efflorescence will continue to be a problem unless the moisture is eliminated.

Solution:

1. DO NOT use any water, cleaners, etc. in an attempt to remove efflorescense. This will only cause more efflorescence.

2. Remove the efflorescence with a dry white cloth or buff using 0000# steel wool. Wait to see if efflorescence returns. If it does, repeat dry buffing.

3. If the efflorescence condition is indoors it may help to install de-humidifiers or turn the air conditioner down to about 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

It can take several months for the stone to dry and completely eliminate the problem.

EGG

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EGG

Types: Chicken or duck

Problem: Eggs contain a protein called albumin which can leave a yellow stain.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap.

Caution: Do not use hot water as it can set the stain.

2. If stain still remains, poultice with poultice powder and 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

FATTY OILS

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FATTY OILS

Types: Butter, margarine, fried foods, mayonnaise, salad dressings, gravy, etc.

Problem: Fats and oils can leave a dark stain which can be difficult to remove. Some salad dressings and foods contain dyes which can also cause staining.

Solution:

1. Thoroughly clean stained area with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap.

2. Apply a commercial degreaser to the stained area and let sit for several minutes. Remove excess degreaser and rinse with clean, clear water.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with degreaser and poultice powder.

4. For stubborn stains, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and poultice powder.

FURNITURE POLISH

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FURNITURE POLISH

Types: Spray and liquid furniture polishes

Problem: Oils, dyes, waxes and silicones can cause staining. The darker polishes (e.g., walnut) can permanently stain the stone.

Solution:

1. Clean with acetone and a clean white rag. Allow acetone to sit on stain area a few minutes and blot remaining acetone with a clean rag.

2. If stain is still present, poultice with poultice powder and mineral spirits or commercial paint remover.

GLUE (SYNTHETIC)

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GLUE (SYNTHETIC)

Types: Super glue, hot glue, epoxy resin, plastic model cement

Problem: These types of glues will rarely stain. The glues are usually hard to remove from the surface.

Solution:

1. On smooth surface, scrape glue with a sharp razor blade. Be careful not to scrape scratch the surface.

2. Any remaining residue can be cleaned with acetone and a clean white rag.

3. If the glue is really stubborn, soak the area in acetone for several minutes then try scraping with a razor blade, followed by wiping with acetone.

GLUE (WATER SOLUBLE)

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GLUE (WATER SOLUBLE)

Types: Casein, mucilage, paste and hide glue.

Problem: The white and clear glue rarely stain. However some of the darker glues can leave a stain that can be difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Scrape excess glue with a sharp razor blade. Be careful not to scratch the surface.

2. Clean with cold water and a mild detergent. Try using a green scouring pad.

3. If glue is stubborn use acetone and a clean white rag.

4. If the glue has left a stain, then poultice with poultice powder and mineral spirits.

GRASS

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GRASS

Type: Grass Stain

Problem: Tannin and chlorophyll in the grass can leave a nasty green or yellow stain.

Solution:

1. Clean stained area with a clean white rag and denatured alcohol.

2. If stain still remains poultice with poultice powder an 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

Caution: DO NOT use ammonia, or any alkaline cleaners on grass stains – it can permanently set the stain.

GREASE

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GREASE

Types: Petroleum type grease like wheel bearing grease, cooking grease and vegetable oils, etc.

Problem: Can leave a nasty dark stain that can penetrate deeply into the stone. Can be very difficult to remove. Try to remove as soon as grease is spilled.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.

2. Soak stained area with a commercial degreaser for several minutes. If degreaser solution dries, reapply keeping it wet. Remove excess degreaser and rinse with clean water.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with poultice powder and commercial degreaser.

4. For stubborn grease stains, poultice with poultice powder and mineral spirits or commercial paint remover.

GUM

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GUM

Types: Chewing gum, tree gum (sap), etc.

Problem: Gum rarely stains polished stone surfaces but can be very difficult to remove from honed and rough textures surfaces.

Solution:

1. Do not try to scrape gum off surface; this only makes more of a mess. Freeze the gum using an aerosol gum freeze, available at most janitorial supply houses. Spray the gum for several seconds then chip the gum with a scrapper or putty knife. This should remove most of the gum.

2. If there is any gum residue still remaining apply a solvent cleaner such as a dry spotter, also available at most janitorial supply houses.

HARD WATER STAINS

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HARD WATER STAINS

Types: Water stains from irrigation systems, faucets, bathroom fixtures, shower walls, etc.

Problem: The minerals in water will leave mineral deposits which can appear as a white haze or even large deposits of crust like minerals.

Solution:

1. If deposits are large try, scraping off excess deposits with a sharp razor blade.

2. Clean with a heavy duty soap film remover.

3. If deposits still remain, apply a solution of weak phosphoric acid and agitate the area applying more acid as needed. NOTE: This will etch all marble surfaces, so plan on re-finishing the marble.

4. Re-hone and polish the stone if necessary.

Some mineral deposits will be imbedded below the surface of the stone and may cause spalling. If this is the case, replacement of the damaged stone is the only alternative.

HEEL MARKS

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HEEL MARKS

Types: Black rubber, neoprene

Problem: Rubber can leave a black streak mark on surface of stone. These marks rarely stain but can be difficult to remove from rough textured stones and concrete.

Solution:

1. Clean with acetone and a clean white rag. On textured stone try using a green scrub pad with acetone.

2. If acetone doesn't work, then try another solvent such as dry spotter, available at a janitorial supply.

ICE CREAM (NON-CHOCOLATE)

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ICE CREAM (NON-CHOCOLATE)

Types: All flavors except chocolate (also see chocolate)

Problem: Food coloring and fruits can cause staining.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent or stone soap.

2. If stain still remains poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

3. If the stain is very stubborn try a poultice with mineral spirits or similar solvent and poultice powder.

INK

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INK

Types: Ball Point pen, magic marker, carbon paper, newspaper print, etc

Problem: Most inks penetrate deep into the stone and can be very difficult to nearly impossible to remove, depending on the age of the stain. It is very important to remove the stain as quickly as possible.

Solution:

1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white rag.

2. Poultice the stain with a solvent such as mineral spirits or commercial paint remover and poultice powder.

Several attempts will be necessary to remove stain. If no improvement is noticed after 5 attempts then stain is most likely permanent.

INK-TONER

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INK-TONER

Type: Copy machine toner and similar inks

Problem: This is one of the most difficult ink stains to remove. If the stain is allowed to sit it may become permanent.

Solution:

1. Thoroughly clean the area with acetone and a clean white cloth. Continue to clean until no ink is transferred to the cloth.

2. If dye has penetrated the stone, poultice with commercial paint remover and poultice powder.

IODINE

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IODINE

Types: Iodine, mercurochrome and similar dyes found in medicines

Problem: Can leave a stain that can be nearly impossible to remove.

Solution:

1. Blot any wet iodine with a clean white rag.

2. Clean the area with denatured alcohol and a clean white rag. Be sure to blot the area. DO NOT wipe; this will only make the stain larger. Blot until you see no more dye on the white rag.

3. If stain still remains poultice with denatured alcohol and poultice powder.

JAM OR JELLY

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JAM OR JELLY

Types: All types and flavors, artificial and natural preserves, etc.

Problem: Dyes and fruits can cause staining, especially grape and berry jams and jellies.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a good mild detergent.

2. If stain still remains poultice with a mineral spirits and poultice powder.

KOOLAID

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KOOLAID

Types: Kool-aid-type drinks and popsicles, etc.

Problem: Dyes can be extremely difficult to remove, especially the red and orange colors.

Solution:

1. Clean with a solution of ammonia and water. This will help neutralize the dye.

2. Poultice with commercial Kool-aid remover (available at janitorial supply) and poultice powder.

LEATHER

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LEATHER

Type: Shoe and clothing leather

Problem: Leather contains oils and dyes which can penetrate into stone and cause staining.

Solution:

1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.

2. If stain is deep, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and poultice powder.

FRUIT JUICE (LIGHT COLORED)

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FRUIT JUICE (LIGHT COLORED)

Types: Apples, pears, oranges, lemon, lime, grapefruit and their juices

Problem: The acids in some fruits, especially lemon will etch polished marble. The sugars in these fruits will turn yellow or brown if allowed to sit too long.

Solution:

1. If the surface is etched, re-polish using a quality  marble polishing compound. If the etching is very deep, re-honing may be necessary.

2. If the fruit has left a stain then clean the area with cold water and a mild detergent.

3. If stain still remains poultice with poultice powder and 20-50% hydrogen peroxide.

LIPSTICK

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LIPSTICK

Types: All colors and types

Problem: Oil waxes and dyes can be difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Scrape excess lipstick with a sharp razor blade. Lipstick is very concentrated; attempting to clean without scraping excess will only spread the lipstick around.

2. Once all excess is removed, clean with acetone and a clean white rag.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and poultice powder.

LIQUOR

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LIQUOR

Types:  All colors and types

Mixed drinks and white wine (for red wine, see wine; for beer, see beer)

Problem:

Alcohols can melt agglomerate-type stones. Dyes can cause staining.

Solution:

1. Agglomerate stones that are damaged can sometimes be filled with a polyester resin. Seek professional help if this is the case or replace the stone.

2. Stains will need to be poulticed with a solvent such as mineral spirits and a poultice powder.

 

LOTION

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LOTION

Types: Baby lotion, body, suntan and hair oil, etc.

Problem: Lotions contain various oils which can cause dark staining. Can be difficult to remove if left on too long.

Solution:

1. Thoroughly clean area with water and a mild detergent.

2. Prepare a solution of a degreaser and water. Apply solution to the stained area and let sit for several minutes. Agitate and remove excess solution and rinse with cold clear water. Repeat several times.

3. If stain is deep, apply a poultice of degreaser and poultice powder.

MAKE-UP

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MAKE-UP

Types: Mascara, blush, eye shadow, liquid foundation, etc.

Problem: Dyes, waxes and oils can stain stone. Many types of makeup have a high concentration of dye, which can be tricky to remove.

Solution:

1. Remove any excess makeup by blotting with a clean white rag. DO NOT wipe; this will only spread the stain.

2. Clean the stained area with denatured alcohol and a clean white cloth. Blot; DO NOT wipe.

3. If stain still remains, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

4. If stain still remains, poultice with a solvent like mineral spirits and poultice powder.

MILDEW STAINS

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MILDEW STAINS

Types: Mildew, fungus, algae and other living plant stains

Problem: Can leave a black, green, blue, orange or white blotchy type stain on stone surfaces. Since this is a living fungus it can grow and spread at a rapid rate. Usually requires a moist environment to grow, such as showers, etc.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent.

2. If there is any soap film on a shower wall, be sure to remove the soap film by scrapping and then wiping with a clean rag and acetone.

3. To remove the mildew stains, spray the area with a solution of 3 parts household bleach to one part water, with several drops of dish detergent. Continue to mist the area until all the mildew stains disappear.

4. Rinse the entire area with clean water and dry it.

MILK

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MILK

Types: Milk, cream and other milk products

Problem: The animal fat contained in milk can sour and leave a yellow stain and it also can smell very badly.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent.

2. Apply a solution of 3 parts bleach to one part water. Let stand for several minutes than rinse with clean water.

3. If stain is still present poultice with 20% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

MORTAR

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MORTAR

Type: Concrete, thin set, mud sets, grout films and other concrete based residues.

Problem: Can leave a film on surface of stone that can be hard to remove. Concrete will very rarely stain unless it is colored.

Solution:

1. If the film is light, clean the surface of the stone with a heavy duty stone cleaner and water.

2. If film is stubborn, clean the surface with a solution of one part hydrochloric acid to 20 parts water on textured stone and one part hydrochloric acid to 40 parts water on polished stone. Agitate until mortar is removed.

3.Re-hone and re-polish marble surfaces. Marble surfaces should be honed and polished by a stone restoration professional. 

Caution: Hydrochloric acid can severely etch polished marble, use extreme caution.

MUD

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MUD

Types: Mud, dirt, red clay, etc.

Problem:Most dirt is not a big problem, however red clay can leave some nasty stains that can be difficult to remove

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent of stone soap and plenty of cold water to remove all surface dirt.

2. If dirt has left any stains then poultice with household ammonia and poultice powder.

3. If the stain was caused by red clay and the ammonia does not remove it, then poultice with a mixture of one part laundry detergent and 2 parts poultice powder.

MUSTARD

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MUSTARD

Types: All types

Problem: Mustard contains turmeric, which is a yellow spice that causes the yellow staining. Mustard stains can be very difficult to remove, especially if the stain is old.

Solution:

1. Thoroughly clean the stained area with cold water and a mild detergent (blot only).

2. Pour 20-50% hydrogen peroxide directly on the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Leave until bubbling stops.

3. If the stain is still present poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

CAUTION: Do not use ammonia or alkaline type cleaners on mustard stains as this may permanently stain the stone.

NAIL POLISH

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NAIL POLISH

Type: Enamel or lacquer types

Problem: Nail polishes will dry very quickly. For this reason the dyes they contains will rarely penetrate into polished stone. Rough texture stone is another problem. The nail polish will penetrate immediately causing a difficult to remove stain.

Solution:

1. Immediately blot with a clean white cloth.

2. Apply acetone to the stain and blot with a clean white cloth. Continue to apply acetone and blot until stain disappears.

3. If stain is old, poultice with a solvent (Mineral spirits, alcohol, etc) and poultice powder.

OIL

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OIL

Type: Automotive, cooking and lubricating, etc.

Problem: Oil can be very difficult to remove on most stone. Oils will penetrate deep into the stone and will spread out throughout the stone. Try to clean up the oil spill as soon as it happens.

Solution:

1. Blot up any excess oil with a clean white cloth. If oil has dried on the surface scrape with a sharp razor.

2. If oil is still fresh and has penetrated into the stone, sprinkle a generous portion of poultice powder on the spill and let stand for 12-24 hours.

3. Remove the dry poultice and prepare a solution of degreaser and water. Apply this solution to the spill and keep it wet for 30 minutes. Vacuum the solution up and blot the remainder with a clean white cloth.

4. If stain is still present poultice with a solvent (commercial paint remover works well) and poultice powder.

PAINT (OIL BASED)

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PAINT (OIL BASED)

Type: All oil based paints and alkyd resins and solvents

Problem: Oil based paints are the most difficult paints to remove. The oils and solvents contained in these paints will carry the dyes deep into the stone.

Solution:

1. Immediately blot any excess paint from the surface with a clean white cloth.

2. Apply liberal amounts of mineral spirits (paint thinner) to the spill and blot. Continue to blot until no color is observed on the cloth.

3. Apply a poultice of commercial paint remover and poultice powder.

PAINT (WATER BASED)

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PAINT (WATER BASED)

Type: All water based paints and polymer resins

Problem: Very difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. If the spill is fresh, blot immediately with a clean white cloth.

2. Clean area with water and a mild detergent.

3. If stain is dry, scrape paint with a sharp razor blade. If scraping is difficult apply a solution of soap and water to the spill and scrape while wet.

4. If stain has penetrated the stone, poultice with a commercial water rinseable paint remover and poultice powder.

PAPER

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PAPER

Type: Brown paper bags and construction paper

Problem: It is very common for contractors to cover a new stone floor with brown construction paper. If this paper gets wet or slightly wet it will bleed into to stone leaving an ugly brown stain.

Solution:

1. Clean area with acetone and a clean white cloth.

2. Poultice area with a solvent such as mineral Spirits and poultice powder.

PENCIL

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PENCIL

Type: Graphite and indelible pencil

Problem: Pencil can be tricky to remove as the graphite may penetrate into the stone. Most commonly the graphite is only on the surface of the stone.

Solution:

1. Try using a pencil eraser to erase the graphite. This procedure will work most of the time.

2. If graphite has penetrated the stone, poultice with denatured alcohol and poultice powder.

PERFUME

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PERFUME

Type: Oils, alcohol and fragrances

Problem: Oils can penetrate the stone and cause a light oil spot. Alcohols can also react with certain stones and turn a brown color.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with de-natured alcohol and a clean white cloth.

2. If stain is deep, poultice with denatured alcohol and poultice powder.

PERSPIRATION

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PERSPIRATION

Type: Body oils, salts and enzymes

Problem: Oils from perspiration are a big problem on walls, countertops etc where hands are constantly touching the surface of the stone.

Solution:

1. Blot the area with denatured alcohol and a clean white cloth.

2. If stain is still present, poultice with denatured alcohol and poultice powder.

 

RED FRUIT

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RED FRUIT

Types: Cherry, grape, blueberry, blackberry, cranberry, raspberry, strawberry and their juices

Problem: All these fruits contain dyes which can be very difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Clean area with cold water

Caution: Do not use soap; it can set the stain.

2. If stain still remains poultice with poultice powder and 20% hydrogen peroxide.

3. If stain is still not removed, poultice with poultice powder and mineral spirits.

RUBBER

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RUBBER

Type: All types of tire marks created by cars, trucks, carts, etc.

Problem: Can leave a rubber track on surface. Tire marks will rarely but they can be difficult to remove on porous surfaces like concrete, brick and rough stone.

Solution:

1. Clean thoroughly with a degreaser and warm water. Scrub with stiff bristle brush.

2. If marks are stubborn, clean with a solvent such as mineral spirits. Use a stiff bristle brush.

RUST

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RUST

Type: Iron oxide

Problem: Rust is one of the most difficult stains to remove. It can cause a reddish-brown to yellow stain that can permanently set into the stone.

Solution:

1. If the rust stain is new, try applying a solution of rust remover and water. Mix into a slurry and lightly agitate the area with a soft bristle brush. Rinse with clean water.

Caution: Rust removers may cause etching; be prepared to re-polish the stone.

2. If stain is old and has penetrated into the stone, poultice with rust remover and  poultice powder.

Caution: Do not use clay powders; use poultice powder.

3. If #2 above does not work poultice, with hydrofluoric acid and poultice powder.

Caution: Never use bleach; it will only make stain worst.

SHOE POLISH

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SHOE POLISH

Type: All liquid polishes including white

Problem: Dyes in shoe polish can penetrate the stone leaving a nasty stain.

Solution:

1. If dry, scrape excess polish with a clean sharp razor. Apply a solution of a quality daily cleaner/conditioner to help lubricate the blade and prevent scratching.

2. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.

3. If stain still appears, poultice with a solvent (e.g. mineral spirits) and poultice powder.

SILICONE

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SILICONE

Type: Silicone caulking used for grouting and anchoring stone

Problem: This can be a serious problem when caulking is used to help hold anchors in place on stone wall panels. The silicone will start to bleed through the stone in the area where the anchors are. It may take several months before the silicone becomes visible.

Solution:

The only known technique that will remove this silicone staining is the following:

Prepare a poultice with commercial paint remover and poultice powder. May require a dozen applications.

If the silicone has not completely cured, the staining may return again.

SMOKE/SOOT

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SMOKE/SOOT

Type: Smoke and soot from fireplaces and fire damage. Does not include tobacco smoke.

Problem: Smoke and soot contain particles of oil and carbon which can leave a black ugly stain.

Solution:

1.Wipe excess soot with a clean, dry white cloth.

2.Clean area thoroughly with a solution of stone soap or dishwashing soap in warm water. Use a stiff brittle brush for rough textured stone or concrete.

3. If smoke damage is heavy clean with a solution of degreaser and warm water.

4. If smoke damage is still present, poultice with the degreaser and poultice powder.

SOY-WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

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SOY-WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE

Type: All brands of soy and Worcestershire sauces.

Problem: Coloring and proteins in these sauces can be extremely difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth. Be sure to blot only.

2. Poultice with a solvent such as mineral spirits and poultice powder.

SOAP FILM

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SOAP FILM

Type: Soap film on shower walls and vanity tops

Problem: Soap from showers can build up on shower walls leaving a film that will not wash off with regular cleaning.

Solution:

1. If soap film is thick, scrape with a razor blade. Wet the surface to avoid scratching.

2. Once all heavy build-up is removed, clean with acetone and a green scrub pad.

3. There are also commercial soap film removers on the market which work well, but make sure that they do not contain acids which can etch polished marble.

Several poultices may need to be applied to completely remove all staining.

BEER

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BEER

Solution:

1. Clean the entire area thoroughly with water and a mild detergent. Allow the water and soap to soak into the stone for several minutes. Lightly agitate the area and remove excess water with a dry towel. Rinse the area with clear water.

2. If the above cleaning procedure does not remove the beer stain, try a 50/50 mix Reagent #1 (or ammonia) and water.

3. If the stone is still stained, prepare a poultice with Reagent #1(or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide).

SOFT DRINKS/COLA

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SOFT DRINKS/COLA

Type: Coke, Pepsi and all other carbonated sodas

Problem: The coloring and sugars in sodas can cause severe staining.

Solution:

1. If the spill is fresh blot with a clean white cloth.

2. Clean the area thoroughly with a mild detergent and warm water. Flood the stained area thoroughly.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

SOUP

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SOUP

Type: All soups and stew containing meat and vegetables

Problem: Can leave some greasy looking stains that can be difficult to remove, especially if the stain is old.

Solution:

1.Clean the area thoroughly with a solution of ammonia and water.

2. If stained after clean-up poultice with ammonia and poultice powder.

3. If the stain is present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

STREAKING

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STREAKING

Type: All types of streaking, appearing as a cloudy uneven pattern on the surface.

Problem: Streaking can be caused from the following:

- Dirty mops used to mop floor.

- Improper application of waxes or coatings.

- Improper cleaners.

- Using too much cleaner.

Solution:

1. Determine what is causing the streaking and eliminate the cause.

2. If streaking is caused by wax build-up, strip the surface with a commercial wax stripper.

3. If streaking is caused by using too much cleaner, dirty mop or improper cleaner, re-mop the floor with stone soap and buff with a white nylon pad.

STUNS

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STUNS

Type: Stun marks caused by heavy objects dropped on a marble floor, also high heel marks

Problem: Stun marks are very common on some marbles. They are usually caused by walking across the floor with high heels, and they leave a white spot on the marble. Stun marks can be telegraphed to the bottom of the stone. They are caused by the individual crystals in the stone exploding.

Solution:

Professional grinding, honing and polishing the floor may eliminate some light stains but frequently they cannot be removed.   

SWIRLS

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SWIRLS

Type: Circular pattern swirls.

Problem: Swirls marks appear as circular patterns on the surface of the stone. This is usually caused by a floor machine using abrasive pads like steel wool or pads that have trapped sand and grit under them.

Solution:

1. Light swirls can be removed by re-polishing. Heavy swirls will require re-honing and re-polishing. Recommend that you contact a stone restoration  professional.

Caution: When using any type of rotating machine (floor buffer, automatic scrubber, hand machine, etc.) never hold the machine stationary while operating. Keep it moving. Keeping machine stationary may cause severe swirling.

SYRUP

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SYRUP

Types: Honey, molasses, maple and corn

Problem: The sugar and coloring added to these syrups can cause staining.

Solution:

1. Thoroughly clean stained area with cold water and a mild detergent of stone soap.

2. If stain still remains, clean with ammonia and water. Let solution sit for several minutes, then agitate and rinse with clean water.

3. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

TAR

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TAR

Type: Asphalt, roofing tar, beach tar, etc.

Problem: Dyes in tar can cause deep staining in stone and concrete.

Solution:

1. Scrape away any excess tar with a clean dry razor blade.

2. Clean the remaining tar with acetone and a clean white cloth.

3. If stain still remains poultice with mineral spirits and poultice powder.

4. If stain is stubborn, poultice with De-Solv-it (available at hardware stores) and poultice powder.

Caution: DO NOT use water with tar. It will harden the tar and set the stain.

TOBACCO

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TOBACCO

Type: Smoke stains from cigarettes and cigars

Problem: Nicotine can cause a light yellow stain that can be difficult to remove.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent or stone soap and cold water.

2. For heavy tobacco stains clean with a degreaser and cold water.

3. If stain still remains, poultice with degreaser and poultice powder.

TOMATO

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TOMATO

Type: Canned, fresh tomatoes, tomato pastes, juice, etc.

Problem: Acids in tomato products can etch the surface of polished marble. Can also leave a red stain in porous stones.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent or stone soap. Rinse with clear water.

2. If stone is stained, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

3. If stone is etched, re-polish with polishing powder.

TOMATO SAUCE

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TOMATO SAUCE

Types: Barbecue, steak, spaghetti and ketchup

Problem: These sauces contain tomato, tannin, oil and dyes. The dyes will leave a red to brown stain. The oil will penetrate the stone and darken it.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with cold water and a mild detergent.

2. If stain is still present, clean the area with an alkaline degreaser. Mix with water according to directions and let solution stand on stained area for several minutes. Agitate with a cloth and rinse with clean water.

3. If stain is still not removed then use poultice powder and an alkaline degreaser. A second poultice may be required using poultice powder and a solvent such as mineral spirits or commercial paint remover if there is dye present.

VEGETABLE

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VEGETABLE

Type: Green and yellow vegetables

Problem: May leave a green or yellow stain.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with a mild detergent of stone soap and cold water.

2. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and Poultice Powder.

VOMIT

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VOMIT

Type: Human or animal vomit

Problem: The acids in the stomach have a very low acidic pH and can severely etch the surface of polished marble. Can also leave a stain depending on what was eaten.

Solution:

1. Clean area through with a mild detergent of stone soap and cold water.

2. Clean are with a solution of household ammonia and cold water. Continue to clean until all stain is gone.

3. If stain is still present, apply a poultice of ammonia and poultice powder.

4. If odor is still present apply a solution of enzyme digester (available at janitorial supply). Keep wet for several hours. Covering with a wet paper towel will help keep enzyme solution wet.

5. If stone is etched, re-polish with a quality marble polishing compound.

WATER RINGS - SPOTS

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WATER RINGS - SPOTS

Type: Rings from drinking glasses and hard water spots from drips.

Problem: Water will not usually stain but will leave a white ring or spot. This ring or spot is deposits of minerals from the water. If the drink contains acid (e.g., lemon in ice tea) it will etch polished marble in the shape of a ring or spot.

Solution:

1. Try buffing ring or spot with dry #000 steel wool.

2. If ring or spot still remains, re-polish with a quality marble polishing compound.

3. If ring or spot is very deep, re-honing may be necessary. Recommend calling a stone restoration professional. 

Caution: If the stone has been waxed or colored with dyes the ring may have removed the wax or dyes from the surface. To test for waxes or dyes take some acetone and clean an inconspicuous area. If the stone lightens there is a wax or dye on the stone. If this is the case you will need to re-wax or re-dye.

WAX COATINGS

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WAX COATINGS

Type: Waxes, acrylics, urethane, epoxy, etc.

Problem: Waxes can yellow and give a plastic like appearance. They will also attract dirt.

Solution:

1. If the coating is water based (e.g., acrylics), strip the stone with a commercial wax stripper. Be sure to rinse thoroughly.

2. If the coating is solvent based (waxes, urethane, epoxy), strip with a commercial paint stripper.

3. Once all coatings have been stripped, re-honing and re-polishing may be necessary.

WINES

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WINES

Type: All red wines

Problem: The tannin contained in red wine can severely stain stone.

Solution:

1. Clean the area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth.

Caution: DO NOT use detergent and water; this may set the stain.

2. If stain is still present, poultice with 20-50% hydrogen peroxide and poultice powder.

3. If stain is stubborn, try poulticing with a solvent such as mineral spirits and poultice powder.

WOOD STAIN

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WOOD STAIN

Type: All solvent based stains and dyes.

Problem: The dyes contained in these stain can be nearly impossible to remove, as they are designed to stain wood. The older the stain gets the harder it is to remove.

Solution:

1. Clean area thoroughly with acetone and a clean white cloth. Continue to clean until no stain is visible on the cloth.

2. Prepare a poultice with commercial paint remover and poultice powder. It may take several attempts to pull these difficult stains out.

YELLOWING

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YELLOWING

Type: General yellowing across the surface of most stones, especially white marbles.

Problem: There are many causes for yellowing of stone. UV light can cause yellowing over time. Iron contained naturally in stone can oxidize and cause yellowing. Inexpensive coatings can cause yellowing. Mastic used to set stone can yellow.

Solution:

1. If the yellowing is caused by iron contained naturally in the stone or if the stone is aging, you will likely never get the yellowing out.

2. If the yellowing is caused by waxes or coating, strip them off according to stripping directions (see Wax Coatings).

Yellowing of white marble, particularly the Carrara types, is very common and cannot be reversed at this time.

Important Cautions

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Important Cautions

Coming Soon…  

Watch Video

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Watch Video

CANDLE WAX

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CANDLE WAX

PROBLEM Candle wax can present a few issues. The candle wax may have melted onto the surface and into the pores of the stone and will need to be removed. If any staining has been left behind, that will need to be treated.

To remove wax from stone surface: Begin by scraping any solid wax material from the surface of the stone with a plastic scraper. Avoid using metal or any tool that can scratch the stone.

To remove candle wax that melted into the pores of the stone: Use a hot clothing iron (preferably one you don’t mind getting wax on) and white paper towels to melt and lift any remaining wax. Place the paper towel over the stain and iron it with the hot iron. As the wax softens, it will be absorbed by the paper towels. Be sure to use new paper towels if needed.

Removing residual stains: After you have scraped the wax off and used the iron and paper to absorb embedded wax, soak a clean cloth in water, wring it out and apply a few drops of either degreaser or ammonia. Wipe the stone with the cloth to eliminate the remaining candle residue. Finish by rinsing the surface with water and air dry.

If any staining remains you will need to use a poultice to break down and draw out the stain. Try a poultice with hydrogen peroxide 40 volume (the kind you get in a beauty supply for processing hair color, not the kind you get in the drug store).

If that doesn't work after a couple of tries, use paint thinner as your chemical.

Refer to the video for details on how to make a poultice.

BIRD DROPPINGS

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BIRD DROPPINGS

Solutions:

  1. After you remove any solid material, wash the area with a neutral cleaner and a clean rag.
  2. If stains exist after this, make a poultice with Reagent #1 (or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide.)

Bird droppings contain uric acid and may result in etching on some stones. If this happens, you may need to have the finish professionally restored.

ACNE CREAMS

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ACNE CREAMS

Solution:

  1. Thoroughly clean the area with water and a mild detergent.
  2. Once the area has dried, pour some Reagent #1 (or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide) on a clean white rag and rub the stained area.
  3. If stain remains, use a poultice with Reagent #1 (or 40 volume hydrogen peroxide).

ImportantIMPORTANT

• Always read the label on the chemical bottle.

• Always follow the directions and precautions listed on the label.

• Never use a chemical if you are unsure what it is or how to protect yourself.

• Always take the time to protect yourself and those working around you.

• Always dispose of a chemical properly. Every municipality has a household hazardous waste drop-off location. For safe disposal of chemical products at work, contact your health and safety representative.

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